So I met this amazing woman at a wedding in Pakistan. She flew out to Kenya to spend three weeks with me so we could get a chance to explore our initial connection. Gobsmacked. Here’s an excerpt from her (Sultana) diary entries of the first two days, then the daily sheet for February, then my version of events!
Day One (Arrival)
After a long 20+ hours of travel, I arrived in rainy Nairobi and my handsome Udi was waiting. Lots of kisses. Lots of smiles. Finally! (And only about 10 days after departing Pakistan). We took a shuttle to our nearby airport hotel and spent the late hours talking, sharing. He had flowers waiting. Learned more about Papa’s values, upbringing and most recent former romance before finally surrendering to attempt sleep. Despite my exhaustion the insomnia continued however, and I only got a wink! I tried to minimize my fidgeting while Papa rested, but simply couldn’t get comfortable. Perhaps too excited to rest? After a time I woke him and we spoke more until the sun came up. More kisses. I apologised for all my movement but he insisted it was “graceful” and not bothersome. Swoon.
Day Two (Valentine’s Day)
The next morning after a much needed protein-rich breakfast we jumped on our crowded flight to Malindi. Our driver Odhis then took us to our Airbnb in Kilifi where we freshened up before heading out to lunch at Salty’s, a beach front restaurant only a short walk away with a lovely laid-back vibe. A hotspot for expats, tourists and locals alike with a tasty menu. Spent the afternoon resting, snacking, talking. Snuggles on the hammock. Friendly chatting with our server Louis, from France, who kindly offered to have his wife take us out to local markets etc. We speculated about Louis’ wife — was she Kenyan perhaps? I still hope to find out! After a quick wade in the truly room temperature, perfect water (my first time in the Indian Ocean water! Except for perhaps Bali) we returned to the villa for a long, much needed nap. I awoke at around 8:30pm to Papa writing, and we headed out for our Valentine’s Day dinner just in time to catch the last seating (11pm curfew).
We decided on Nautilus, a restaurant overlooking the water filled with western tourists. Through the open kitchen the food looked and smelled amazing! We weren’t disappointed— I was thrilled about our order and we nearly finished it all. Had a friendly encounter with a UK couple seated next to us who recommended a guide for our Safari, and another guest joined in to offer her services as a guide (or just for friendly company). We were booted out by the staff who needed to close up, so we took our bottle of wine down to the beach below and had the most lovely time talking, laughing. Papa found himself mildly attacked by a beach crab we named Sebastian, who spent the next hour alternating between approaching us and then sneaking back into the shadows when noticed. So much laughter! Was Sebastian being friendly ? Not likely! Something told us he wanted us off his beach. We agreed, we were in his habitat ! We added to our list of projects an offering to Sebastian: a song we will dedicate/perform for him. So much admiration for the persistence and bravery of this underdog crab. Did he know we had crab pasta for dinner? Perhaps crab instincts are superior. Apologies, Sebastian. Finished our wine swigging from the bottle. Beach to ourselves, no bug bites. We finally realized we were out nearly 2 hours past curfew, so we called a local motorbike driver, Jimmy, to retrieve us. We recalled passing a police station on the way to Nautilus, and Jimmy agreed to take us back to villa via an alternate route due to the curfew. “Phew!” Came home and watched a few YouTube videos before retiring to bed. I didn’t make it even 2 minutes into our Wim Hof breathing exercise before I was out snoozing. Slept well despite a few nightmares (why?) and got a solid 8 hours. Thank you Jesus!
I woke to Papa playing guitar, rehearsing chords for the Melody Gardot song I told him I want to cover. Swooning again! Feeling refreshed, I met him on the patio, spent a while listening to music & talking about the songs on the cover playlist I sent him. I met our sweet housekeeper Gladys who prepared a light breakfast of fruit, yogurt, muesli for us. We went for a beach run, did a short gratitude meditation + yoga session. Wow, feeling jamazing !
Day One (Arrival): I booked a hotel near the airport due to the curfew. So nervous! Hit the gym. Got to Airport Early. Excited. Sultana lands and sends many voice notes (love them). Left the flowers at the hotel (doh!) Friend Lexi calls and advises I play it cool, have some drinking water ready (and gum for the kiss! thanks Lexi). Hotel drops me at the wrong spot ugh. Run to her terminal. Sweaty. Good god she is more gorgeous than I remember. We Kiss. Joy. The world stops. No gum needed. Hug and snuggle in the shuttle back oblivious to the others sharing it with us. Elated. Talk long into the night, learn about her family, past relationships, and our unwavering belief in our bond is incredible given the brevity of our acquaintance (BLINK).
Day Two (Valentine’s day): Up early. Feel like the luckiest man in the world. Big Breakfast. Flight to Malindi. Odhis drives us to Airbnb (shout out to our host my buddy Phil Lowe) in Kilifi. Not super high end but gorgeous garden and dogs. No AC, bed fans. This place actually deliver the best sleep of the whole trip. We go to Salty’s, a beach front restaurant. We hold hands. Snuggles on the hammock. Tuna Carpaccio, soft sand. The bartender is a wicked french dude called Louis. They make terrible Kombucha. The Indian ocean is glistening and so warm, we wade out into it. Picture perfect. Amazing hug. Get home. Sleep. Boda Boda to Valentine’s Day dinner at Nautilus. A hive of activity evident throughout the open kitchen. Insane Smells. Sultana is stunning, and in her element connecting with the staff with me and even with the people around us (some fellow brits). The servers are kinda friendly (hot and cold) but the food is awesome. We have deep conversation on the beach for hours. Attacked by Sebastian the crab! Love him. Hilarious. Jimmy drives us back on his motorcycle (boda boda) after Curfew - sneaky. Sultana is a generous tipper as always. Wim Hof to Sleep.
Day Three: Sultana in the morning, glowing, ay karumba. We do yoga, mediation, go for a run, hit the beach beach, then Jimmy gives us a lift to a place called “Distant relatives” (surreal beautiful). We see the couple (brits) from the Nautilus restaurant last night there. Awesome lunch (first Sultana Dawa!). We head down to beach and nearly bring the restaurant dog, sad we don’t but we don’t want to be responsible for losing him. We speak to a chill dude called Omar who offers us a sail (glad we didn’t bring the dog now). He sails us on a little boat out to a big wooden boat called “Musafier”. There is a little girl called Lilly and her eccentric Tarzan mama on the boat with long armpit hair. We also meet Noelle (German) & Africa - yes that is her name. She is the captain of the Musafier and invites us to become crew as they need people to spread shark liver oil on the wood of the boat to protect it (huh). Ibrahim, one of the most chill deckhands, is munching on the Miraa plant quietly, smiling. We go back to Distant Relatives after our stunning sunset sail. We have a chat with the Brit couple again (Emily reluctant return to UK). Then we meet Mike (first other American we’ve come across). He sold all his belongings, and just came up to 7 weeks in as former citizen of the USA having relinquished citizenship. He struggles with depression but you cant really tell (can you ever). He seems like a good dude.
Three Weeks Later
Three Days to Go: We are in Nairobi. Sultana makes us a coffee and a delivers a delicious kiss with it. We run with Leon to Karura to meet Andrea for Tennis with Michael. Fun Team. We meditate and do Wim Hof (breathing) on the benches. After tennis we have a big breakfast. Delicious Spinach. I run back for work. Leon and Sultana walk. I squeeze in some quick music practice. Sultana goes on a Goose Chase trying to do some shopping in the local markets. She underdresses to try to be undercover but they see her coming a mile away; such a kind heart - has to be on the defensive, funny. We stay at the Radisson. Sultana scores us an upgrade (woweee). High Times. Tino/Maria join, steak Dinner in room. Sultana Hangry is cute. She orders booze with chupa chupa app in swahili wtf (impressive, no assistance required). We love cosy time in robes. Epic passionate discussion about politics (going to miss these). Dive into rabbit holes. Sultana is a radiator.
Two Days To Go: Sultana is up first, watching news, she cares so. Gorgeous shower. Epic sultana smells all over (hair / lotion etc). Her hydration discipline is second to none. We get a strong massage from Elizabeth! Huge breakfast - eggs, waffles, yum. Late checkout. We go for covid tests. Quick turnaround PCR. Home. Work. Wim Hof with Leon. Music. Sultana knows all the words! Organise a big family dinner at a restaurant called Red Ginger. The cousins are on fine form as always - Wanja’s Toast (there are big ships, there are little ships, what we treasure are friendships). Love Flavia & her boyfriend (Alex). Shiv is a legend too. Boozy. Sultana loved it. Wine at home. Meditate/Sleep.
Last Day: I Hardly sleep. Restless. Write sultana poem + put in calendar (gift). She is up, hugs, I am emotional. Run, bring home flowers. Last shower aromas. Big breakfast. We take pics outside the house (Joel struggles with camera lol). Mum gives us a ride to a music studio. First recording session with Mark the producer. We jam out four songs then leave late for the final adventure. Delicious coffee. Drive to Karen. Snooze in the car. Literally arrive at a place called Adventure farm where my Mum is performing stories for kids. We perform “In the Name of Love”. Sultana is vibrant. Everyone is Dancing. we hear an amazing Botswana story by Seretze from the United Kingdom. I unleash an Egg and Spoon race with the younger cousins, nieces and nephews. My sister shares her Art and we all get Henna tattoos. Time to head to the airport. Stop off for an amazing dinner at Talisman. Stunning vibe/ambiance. Sultana shares some of her steak (babe). We Reminisce. Epic service, specially my dude Bolton. Time is moving far too quickly. The universe nudges me to to give Sultana a ride to the Airport. Past curfew again of course. She changes. Last Kiss. Bye. So bitter sweet. Home. She Left her Slippers behind. House feels a little empty.
The Poem I already miss hearing you sing in the sunshine I miss your giggle I miss your soft skin and beautiful smile I miss your passionate drunken rants and rabbit holes I miss our mornings I miss sultana, and her pillow kingdom I miss cheeky monkey I miss proudly introducing you to people I love and cherish I miss your dreams and schemes I miss your power moves I miss your dancing I miss your voice I miss seeing you try new things, and loving them I miss our energy I miss our conversation I miss our writing time I miss our kisses, and snuggles, and cozy I miss being a team (Sultana response “that never stops”)